The SCX24 is metric. All of it. Grab an imperial hex driver out of the toolbox and you'll strip the first screw. This article is the kit I have on my bench. Buy these once and you're set for years of building.
The non-negotiables
- 1.3mm hex driver. Body screws and most chassis screws.
- 1.5mm hex driver. Most aftermarket servo mounts, motor mounts, transmission case (M2 screws).
- 2.0mm hex driver. Axle screws, skid plate screws, link mounts (M2.5 and M3 screws).
- 2.5mm hex driver. Some larger screws on aftermarket parts.
- JIS #00 and #0 screwdrivers. Some stock SCX24 axle screws are JIS, not Phillips. A regular Phillips will cam them out. Wera or Vessel make good JIS bits.
- Small flathead. Pry work on link cups, popping ball ends.
I recommend buying a multi-bit driver set from MIP, Dynaplus, or Wera rather than individual drivers. The driver handle outlasts the bits.
Soldering kit (mostly optional now)
Modern SCX24 upgrades are mostly plug-and-play. Servos, motors, and ESCs all come with matching connectors. Most builders never need to solder. The exceptions are LED light kits (some still ship bare-wire), changing battery connectors, or replacing the stock 2-in-1 board on older trucks where the motor and servo leads were soldered. If any of those describe you, here's the kit:
- 60 to 80W temperature-controlled soldering iron. Pinecil V2, TS101, or Hakko FX-888D. Pencil irons under 60W won't heat motor wire fast enough.
- 0.5 to 0.8mm 63/37 leaded rosin-core solder. Fine diameter for fine work. Lead-free works but needs more heat.
- Paste or liquid flux. Even rosin-core solder needs a dab on motor tabs.
- Heat shrink assortment. 1.5mm, 2.5mm, 4mm. Wraps every solder joint.
- Wire strippers rated 24 to 30 AWG. General-purpose strippers chew up motor wire.
- Helping hands or PCB clamp. Micro wires roll under the iron.
- Isopropyl alcohol 99% plus a flux brush. Clean every joint after soldering. Flux residue conducts.
Threadlocker and consumables
- Blue threadlocker (Loctite 243). Every M2 and M2.5 fastener. Don't use red on small hardware.
- White lithium grease. Axle diffs and wheel hexes.
- Mobil 1 or AW grease. Transmission worm gear.
- Light bearing oil. 3-in-1 or dedicated RC bearing oil.
- Plastic-safe contact cleaner. For ESC and receiver pads.
Hardware to keep on hand
Aftermarket parts ship with hardware that's often slightly wrong (too long, too short, wrong head style). A small stash saves trips to the hardware store:
- M2 socket head screws in 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm lengths.
- M2.5 socket head screws in 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm.
- M3 socket head screws in 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm.
- Small M2 washers for spacing.
- Spare ball ends for link cups (INJORA sells assortments).
Diagnostic tools
- Multimeter. $15 will do. Continuity checks before powering up new wiring, polarity checks before plugging batteries in.
- LiPo cell checker / voltage meter. Around $8. Plugs into the JST-XH balance lead. Tells you each cell voltage at a glance.
- Calipers. For measuring tire diameter, shock length, screw lengths. $15 digital calipers are fine.
- Bench-top magnifier or strong desk light. You will drop M2 screws. They will disappear.
Programming gear
- Servo program card. AGFRC AGF-SPV3 or compatible. $15. Required for AGFRC, Reefs, and 3Flow9RC programmable servos. Works for life across every AGFRC-family servo you buy.
- Bluetooth phone. For the Furitek Furicar app. iOS or Android.
- Hobbywing LED program card. $15. For QuicRun ESCs.
- Castle Link USB. $25. For Castle Sidewinder Nano / Micro.
LiPo safety gear
- LiPo charging bag. $10. Charge inside it. Always.
- Smoke detector in the charging area. If you don't already have one.
- Fire extinguisher rated for electrical fires. Within reach of your charging station.
Optional but worth it
- Build mat. A 30×40cm work mat keeps small parts from rolling off the table and protects body shells.
- Parts trays. Magnetic or compartmented. The amount of time you save not looking for screws pays for the tray.
- Phone tripod and lights. Even a $20 ring light makes garage builds easier on the eyes.
- 3D printer. Not required, but unlocks custom bodies, body lifts, battery trays, tool stands, and dozens of other useful prints.
Sizes that come up most
For reference, here's what you'll see most often on SCX24 builds:
- Wheel hex: 7mm
- Servo mount screws: M2
- Motor mount screws: M2 (sometimes M2.5)
- Body post pins: 1.4mm
- Skid plate screws: M2 or M2.5
- Link mount screws: M2.5 or M3
- Servo spline: 25T mini (4.9mm shaft)
- Battery connector: JST-PH 2.0
- Balance lead: JST-XH
Where this kit gets used: every install. See the servo install, brushless install, and portal axle install guides for specific applications. Routine care procedures are in the maintenance guide.