Most builders upgrade their SCX24 in the wrong order. They buy portal axles because portals look cool, then wonder why the truck still won't steer up a ledge. Or they bolt on brushless and strip the stock gears in an afternoon. Across 20+ builds I've landed on the same six stages every time, and they go in a specific order for a reason.
This is the longer companion to the first upgrades guide. If you only do three things, read that one. If you want the full trail-ready build with a budget plan, this is the path.
Stage 0: what stock SCX24 actually is
Out of the box the SCX24 is a $150 RTR that drives well on a coffee table, runs about 15 minutes per pack, and looks decent on the licensed bodies. The 2.4 GHz radio is modern enough. The stock motor will outlast everything else on the truck.
What fails first, in order: the servo gives up under load, the tires slide on rock, the truck tips on side slopes, the stock battery runs out fast, the brushed motor feels on or off, and the plastic axles bottom out on real obstacles. Each stage below fixes exactly one of those failures.
1. Servo and steering link
The stock servo is the weakest part on the truck. Every later upgrade adds weight and torque demands the stock servo cannot meet, so do this one first.
My pick is the 3Flow9RC Torrent Mini HV at around $55, paired with their Stainless Steel Servo Horn. The AGFRC A20CLS at around $50 is the safer-priced default and lasts forever. I've had bad luck with eMAX servos from unknown sellers; the counterfeit problem is real and I've had units that were dead on arrival. If you want eMAX, buy from a trusted vendor with a real return policy.
Replace the steering link at the same time. A flexy stock link wastes half the torque of any new servo. A $10 aluminum link from Hot Racing, Treal, or INJORA does the job, or step up to 3Flow9RC's brass steering link if you want weight forward.
More in the servo explainer and the best servos buying guide. Running total: around $70.
2. Tires
Stock SCX24 tires are a hard compound that slides off rock. New rubber is the biggest performance-per-dollar upgrade after the servo, and it costs about $14.
The INJORA S5 Rock Terrain (56×22mm) is the universal beginner answer. Drop-in fit on stock wheels, soft compound, around $14 a pair. The RC4WD Rock Creeper 1.0" is the community gold standard if you want to pay $18 for a slightly grippier compound.
Stay between 57 and 62mm for stock bodies. Above 62mm the C10 in particular will rub without fender trimming or hex extenders. Full picks in the best tires buying guide. Running total: around $85.
3. Brass weights
Brass lowers the center of gravity and plants the front end. The trap is overdoing it: too much brass strains the servo and the plastic drivetrain. Stop somewhere around 40 to 60 grams of added weight.
My order:
- Brass wheel weights. Start here. Cheapest, biggest improvement.
- Brass knuckle weights. Reassess after these. The truck feels like a different rig.
- Brass diff covers. Front only is usually enough.
- Brass skid plate. Optional.
Skip aluminum knuckles. They're lighter than the stock plastic and take weight away from exactly where you want it. Running total: around $115.
4. Battery
The 350 mAh stock pack sags under load. A 450 to 550 mAh 2S pack roughly doubles your run time and delivers cleaner voltage for the brushless upgrade in the next stage. Buy two or three packs so you're not waiting on a charger between sessions.
I run CNHL MiniStar 900 mAh 2S packs (around $11 each in a 2-pack). They fit the stock tray on Jeep, C10, Bronco, and Deadbolt bodies. Pair them with a real balance charger; the stock USB brick is slow at best and a fire risk at worst. I use a Tenergy TB6-B. Running total: around $160 with two packs and a charger.
5. Brushless motor and ESC
This is where most builders get pulled toward brushless too early. Two things have to be true before you bolt brushless on: you have a real battery (Stage 4), and your drivetrain can handle the extra torque. Brushless on stock plastic axle gears strips them within hours.
Two paths:
- Brushed for now. A Hobbywing QuicRun 1080 G2 standalone ESC ($35) plus a 66T brushed motor ($12) is a sub-$50 upgrade that completely changes throttle feel. This is the path most trail drivers should take.
- Brushless. The Furitek Stinger ($130 to $160) is the trail sweet spot. The Furitek Lizard V2 + Komodo 1400kV ($170 to $200) is the comp pick. Budget on hardened steel transmission gears ($14 to $20) before you flip the switch.
Two warnings. Stay on 2S; 3S will pop most stock-class ESCs. And on post-2021 trucks (Bronco, Gladiator, late JLU) the 2-in-1 board has no separate channel 2 port, so a standalone ESC means a new receiver too. Running total: $210 (brushed) to $370 (brushless).
6. Portal axles (or an LCG chassis)
Stage 6 is the only place I'll tell you there's a fork. Most builders go portal axles. A few go LCG chassis instead. A few do both.
Portals add 12mm of ground clearance, widen the track 6mm per side, and underdrive the wheels 25% for finer crawl control. They also replace fragile plastic axle housings with metal. My picks:
- MEUS Racing Isokinetic V2 (metal) at $90 to $130 is the value king. This is what I put on most builds.
- LGRP Spider 9, Mofo RC V2 Brass Portal Kit, and TiTS are the premium tier ($150 to $250). Comp-grade machining, comp-grade prices.
- INJORA Planet Axles are budget-acceptable for trail but I wouldn't run them under brushless.
LCG chassis like the INJORA Universal Carbon Fiber LCG($18) lower the body and open up shock-mounting geometry. They're great if you're chasing flex and articulation, less great if you're trying to clear bigger obstacles. For trail capability, go portals. For comp flex, go LCG or both.
Deep dives in best portal axles and best LCG chassis. Running total: $300 to $620.
When to stop
Most trail drivers do not need Stages 5 and 6. Honest truth from 20+ builds:
- Stages 1 to 3 turn a frustrating truck into a genuinely capable one. This is the sweet spot for casual drivers.
- Stage 4 is basically free. Always do it.
- Stage 5 is for builders who want comp finesse, want to bounce rocks, or are bored of the brushed feel. Trail drivers can skip it.
- Stage 6 is mostly geometry. If your local terrain doesn't high-center a stock rig, you don't need it.
Stop wherever the truck satisfies you. There's no prize for finishing all six.
Budget summary
- Stage 1 (servo + link): $60 to $90
- Stage 2 (tires): $15 to $30
- Stage 3 (brass): $25 to $80
- Stage 4 (battery + charger): $50 to $90
- Stage 5 (motor + ESC): $50 (brushed) or $150 to $250 (brushless)
- Stage 6 (portals or LCG): $20 (LCG only) or $100 to $250 (portals)
Realistic mid-range trail-ready build: around $450 to $550 all-in. Comp build with premium portals: $700 to $900.
Log each stage in your wishlist as you read so you don't lose track of what you decided. Move parts to Ordered when you place the order and Installed once they're on the truck. The total cost will roll up automatically.