The SCX24 is the RC crawler that's genuinely fun out of the box. I personally love the Jeep JLU and Gladiator, and my son is a fan of the Base Camp. Drive it around for a week before you start spending money. You'll know what's actually bothering you, and you'll buy the right thing instead of the trendy thing.
Once you start going down the rabbit hole, it's hard to stop. That's how I got to building so many cars now. This is a general order of what I do.
The recommendations below assume you're upgrading the stock SCX24 you have. I'll write about custom builds later with new chassis, links, etc.
Here is where I typically start:
1. Real charger and additional batteries
The stock USB charger is the most dangerous thing in the box. They charge super slow, and there are reports of the chargers shorting or causing issues with the batteries themselves.
I personally use a Tenergy TB6-B. It can feel confusing the first time you set it up, but a quick run through the manual or a YouTube video sorts it out fast. After that it's straightforward: it balance-charges any LiPo and handles every battery in my fleet.
There are tons of batteries out there, and I'll provide some recommendations in another article.
You'll also need a PH 2.0 adapter cable to match the SCX24 connector.
2. Servo and steering link
The stock servo is the weakest part on the truck. It strips, it gives up under load, and it's the reason your truck loses steering halfway up a ledge. My recommendation is to have a spare ready once the stock servo breaks or strips.
My pick is the 3Flow9RC Torrent Mini HV at around $55, paired with their Stainless Steel Servo Horn (~$16). Note that the 3Flow9RC Servo Horn uses M2 size threads. If you want something more budget-friendly, the AGFRC A20CLS is the safe default. It's programmable, coreless, metal-gear, and it lasts.
About eMAX… I've had issues with these. The community will tell you to buy an eMAX ES08MAII. The servos themselves are usually fine, but the counterfeit problem is real. Cheap listings on Amazon and AliExpress are often fakes that fail within minutes, and the seller will ghost your refund. I've had some that were dead on arrival or stripped with the smallest struggle. If you want eMAX, buy from a trusted vendor with a real return policy. If you have the funds, my recommendation is to save up for the 3Flow9RC Torrent or the AGFRC A20CLS. I've read that Mofo RC makes some good ones, but I haven't gotten my hands on one yet!
Replace the steering link at the same time. A $10 aluminum link from Hot Racing, Treal, or INJORA removes the flexy plastic that wastes your new servo's torque. If you want more weight up front, look for some nice brass steering links. Again, I'm a fan of 3Flow9RC, and you should definitely check out their rolling steel steering links. They're pricey, but so nice to look at and super functional. They have an option for most popular axles.
3. Tires and wheels
Stock tires are OK but I've had them slide off rocks instead of sticking. New rubber is a great upgrade. There are different size tires so be wary of what you buy if you want the scale look or you want to go bigger for grip and performance. I started with the Injora S5 Rock Terrains (54mm) for about $16 for just the tires, and $20 with the silicon inserts.
If you want bigger (64mm), make sure your fenders clear. The C10 body in particular sits low, so you'll need hex extenders or some fender trimming before you go that big. If you have the funds, Little Guy Racing Parts makes some super nice tires, along with JConcepts, and RCAWD.
New wheels really help customize the rig. I started with cheaper Injora wheels and then switched to some of the brands offered by Little Guy Racing Parts.
4. Brass at the wheels and knuckles
Brass lowers your center of gravity exactly where it matters: at the rotating mass. It's also the easiest place for beginners to overspend. The rule is concentrate weight low and forward, and stop when the truck feels planted.
My order:
- Brass wheel weights. Start here.
- Brass knuckle weights. Reassess after these. The truck will feel like a different rig.
- Brass diff covers. I typically only do the front.
- Brass skid plate. Optional.
Don't unnecessarily add brass everywhere. Too much weight strains your servo and the stock plastic drivetrain.
5. Motor and ESC
This can get tricky. I personally kept running brushed motors for awhile. This let me stick with cheaper transmissions, as well as cheaper and even the stock ESC. Little Guy Racing Parts and MofoRC both offer cheap motors for when they burn out or fail. I remember getting some LGRP 3 packs of motors for cheap. There are tons of ESCs out there too from MofoRC, to DinkyRC, Big Kid Tiny Truck RC, and more.
When you are absolutely sure you want better throttle control and crawling, that's when you can look into brushless set ups. Keep in mind that this will significantly raise the price. Some ESCs and Motor combos like Furitek are $100+. Throw in a new transmission and motor mount and it adds up.
6. Shocks
You can get away with the stock shocks in the beginning, but if you want a bit more travel and flex, you can get different size oil-filled shocks. I'd recommend 39 to 43mm shocks, unless ultra flex is your goal.
What comes after
If you've done all of the above, you've got a truck that crawls really well. Then you can get into new axles, CVD driveshafts, portal axles (MEUS isokinetics for value, LGRP or Mofo RC for premium), brushless if you want more speed, new chassis, body swaps, servo mounts, limiting straps, scale parts, and more!
To plan it on the site, log the parts in your wishlist as you read so you don't lose track of what you decide. Take pictures of your progress and make notes of your build for what works, and what doesn't.